Night Vision: The Ability to See in the Dark is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
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Have you ever wondered what it would be like to have the ability to see in the dark? To be able to move about freely and foresee all obstacles that would otherwise be hidden in the dark of night? Thanks to the invention of night vision devices, we now have the ability to see in the dark. Animals have this biological capability, whereas humans lack a tapetum lucidum. With the invention of night vision devices, it has increased the benefits of hunting, camping, fishing, military uses and much more.
Night seeing devices were used during World War II and since then, they have expanded to include a generation of many more different types of devices including upgrading of original goggles, binoculars and scopes. During the war and even today, soldiers found these night vision devices extremely beneficial as they allowed them to see enemies, obstacles and shoot with little light available. The Army usually uses two types of night vision devices – image intensifiers and thermals. Image intensifiers increase the clarity of objects by amplifying the light that is available, even light that is there that cannot be seen by the eye alone. Thermals are often used to see in the dark by thermal imaging. Objects giving off a high temperature, for example, a person would show up glowing red and orange. Trees and plants would show up blue (cooler temperatures).
Night goggles or glasses are very common for the average person. How they work is by electronic means. Instead of depending on a light source to amplify vision, they use the the light that already exists to amplify clarity. They are extremely sensitive and can be used for all sorts of things. Soldiers can use them, you can use them to go hunting in the night, camping, fishing at night, marine and wildlife observation, security and probably for the average person – repairs. It’s convenient to have night goggles while you’re working on a flat tire in the middle of nowhere, than to deal with holding a flash light.
Night vision has grown to include not only goggles, but to night vision binoculars and night vision cameras. They are a great asset to have and have worked wonders for those who already use them. Having the capability to see in the dark has saved people’s lives, given them peace of mind, helped local authorities and has been an aid for everyone who needs to see when they really need it most. So, no need to be afraid of the dark anymore.

Night Vision: The Ability to See in the Dark is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Spotting Scope Terminology is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
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The spotting scope you choose greatly affects how it will work for you under certain conditions. For example, the person who only wants to use his or her spotting scope at the rifle range can often drive up to the bench and conveniently layout supplies including a large objective porro prism spotting scope. The target shooter could easily use a 80MM porro prism scope on a full-length tripod and not worry about compact design or lightweight since their automobile is a few yards away. On the other hand, a person who is planning an elk hunt in Montana’s Bob Marshall Wilderness is probably very concerned with weight and the ability to fit the scope into a pack. Typically roof prism spotting scopes offer the hunter or backpacker a more compact and lightweight design to pack and carry long distances. While some porro prism spotting scopes are quite compact, others can offer larger fields of view and resolution, but they may not be practical to pack into the woods. Other features for the hunter to consider are rubber armoring to protect the scope from blunt force. A waterproof spotting scope offers piece of mind to the hunter working in rain and snow.
**This is not a comprehensive list of all the factors to consider when choosing a spotting scope but it will hopefully shed some light on some of the more critical factors to consider.
Magnification: The magnification feature of a spotting scope allows the user to view an object much closer than it would otherwise be using only the human eye. The magnification power is a function of both the scope’s optical system and the eyepiece being used. Spotting scopes such as Bushnell’s Spacemaster® series and Bausch & Lomb’s Premier® HDR series offer the user a choice of zoom eyepieces such as a 15-45x variable eyepiece or high power fixed eyepieces such as 60x. Most hunters prefer the versatility of a zoom (variable) eyepiece for use at varying distances. Sometimes the higher magnification offered in a zoom eyepiece can make the difference between positively identifying a trophy animal and not knowing for sure whether this is the Boone and Crockett animal you’ve been tracking.
Objective Lens Diameter: The objective lens of a spotting scope serves to gather incoming light. A 60mm objective lens will gather more light than a 50mm lens. When more light is transmitted to your eye, you will view a brighter and clearer image. Resolution (ability to see detail) is also a function of the objective lens diameter.
Eye Relief: Eye relief is the minimum distance between the spotting scope eyepiece and your eye that still allows you to see the entire field of view. Hunters and shooters who do not wear eyeglasses can use most spotting scopes and eyepieces without any trouble. People who wear eyeglasses are more concerned with eye relief. When a person wears glasses while looking through a standard spotting scope eyepiece their glasses may touch the eyepiece. Bushnell offers two eyepiece enhancements for those users wearing eyeglasses. Most Bushnell® and Bausch & Lomb® spotting scope eyepieces offer the ability to roll down the rubber eyecup thus increasing the distance between your glasses and the eyepiece without impairing the view. If even more eye relief is required specially designed long eye relief zoom eyepieces are available. The need for eye relief is an individual specific need. Sometimes eyeglass wearers are more comfortable looking through a spotting scope without their glasses on.
Optical Lens Coatings: Lens coatings play an important role in getting the light gathered at the objective end of the scope transmitted through the ocular end to your eye. The lens coatings are partially responsible for delivering a brighter and higher contrast image. All Bausch and Lomb® spotting scopes offer multi-coated lenses for superior images. Bushnell® spotting scopes feature fully coated lenses.
Spotting Scope Terminology is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Binocular Terminology is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
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Magnification: Magnification is simply the degree to which the object is enlarged. With a 7×35 binocular, for example, the object appears to be seven times closer than without the aid of a binocular. The number immediately following the “x” is the diameter in millimeters of the objective (front) lens. A 10×50 binocular, therefore, has a 10 times magnification with a 50mm objective lens.
Exit Pupil: The exit pupil refers to the size of the shaft of light transmitted to the eye. The more light, the better the contrast. You can actually see the exit pupil by holding the eyepiece of the binocular approximately 12 inches from your eye. It is the bright circle of light in the center of the eyepiece. Exit pupil is expressed in millimeters and is normally derived by dividing the power into the objective lens diameter. A 7×35 binocular has an exit pupil of 5mm (35 ÷ 7).
Field of View: The field of view is the width, measured in degrees or feet, of the viewing area you would see at 1,000 yards.
Prism Systems: Binoculars have left and right side barrels linked to each other by an axle. The two most frequently used prism systems are porro and roof. Porro Prism binoculars are characterized by the eyepieces being offset from the objective lenses. Roof Prism binoculars feature lenses positioned in line for a more compact design.
Resolution: Also referred to definition, is the ability of a binocular to distinguish fine detailand retain clarity.
Coated Optics: Optical glass surfaces are coated by magnesium fluoride to reduce light loss and glare due to reflection. Most binoculars are fully multi-coated to further enhance viewing and reduce eye strain. Some binoculars have a special image enhancing, amber, high contrast coatings.
WaterProof: This describes a binocular’s ability to remain completely dry on the inside when exposed to moisture or total submersion in water. Binoculars are sealed with O-rings and are filled with 100% arid nitrogen, which also resists all forms of moisture.
Stray Light: When light entering the binoculars reflects off of interior surfaces, the reflected light eventually exits inside the binoculars in the form of stray light. This unfocused light typically diminishes the image quality of the sight picture.
Focusing Range: All binoculars have the ability to be focused for infinity. So a primary point of distinction between binocular models is the minimum focus range. Birders tend to favor models with a short focus range of about 15 feet, but 20 to 25 feet is usually acceptable.
Twilight Performance: Using formulas gives a basic evaluation of low light performance, however, one must keep in mind that they are mathematical formulas and do not take into effect some of the most critical features in optics; glass quality, number of lenses, precision of manufacturing and coatings.
Binocular Terminology is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Types of Binoculars is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Binoculars always come in handy – whether you’re an avid hunter or an occasional theater-goer. They are essential gear for camping and hiking, a day in the field or a vacation trip to the grand canyon. Choosing the best binocular for your needs isn’t always easy. Consider when, where and how often you plan to use them in order to select a binocular with a combination of features that are right for you.
Standard Binoculars can be used for everything from nature observation to spectator sports.
Compact Binoculars are smaller and lighter in weight, and are a good choice to take along to the theater or concerts, or on hikes and hunting trips.
Wide Angle Binoculars are ideal for tracking fast-moving action across wide areas such as football fields, racetracks and wilderness terrain.
Zoom Binoculars let you increase the magnification when you want to get in close for details. From distant to near view, you get the best of both worlds.
Waterproof Binoculars deliver clarity despite foul weather conditions including fog, rain and ice. O-ring sealed and nitrogen-purged for reliable fogproof, waterproof performance.
Types of Binoculars is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>How To Sight In Your Rifle Scope is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Rifles are like people and have individual characteristics. Two identical rifles made by the same manufacturer, although alike may shoot differently. Every rifle will fire different ammunition brands and different ammunition grains with varying degrees of accuracy. The following procedure takes these factors into account as you should if you wish to be accurate in your shooting.
Tools You Will Need
• The rifle and scope you will be shooting
• No less than two different types of ammo from different manufacturers and with different loads. (We suggest you try at least three.)
• Several paper or cardboard targets.
• A bore sighter. (Available at gun shops and sporting goods stores, an inexpensive item.)
• A pair of good binoculars or viewing scope.
See Binoculars or Spotting Scopes.
• Tools for adjusting your scope. (See the instructions that came with your scope.)
• A felt marker to identify groupings on the target.
• Appropriate safety equipment such as ear plugs or other hearing protection, and shooting glasses or other eye protection
****PLEASE FOLLOW ALL SAFETY RULES WHILE HANDLING YOUR FIREARM. REMEMBER TO CARRY YOUR FIREARM UNLOADED, BREECH OPEN, AND NEVER POINTED IN THE DIRECTION OF ANOTHER INDIVIDUAL.
STEP 1
Having located an appropriate location to fire your rifle, you need to set up a target at a distance of 100 yards* from your shooting location . You should use a comfortable gun rest to eliminate as much human error as possible.
Making certain the rifle is empty with no cartridge in the chamber and the breech open , follow the instructions that came with your bore sighter and install the bore sighter in the muzzle of your rifle lining it up with the scope as close as possible.
Now, sighting through the scope as though you were going to shoot you should see two sets of cross hairs. One set is a plain cross hair (this is the one in the scope itself) and another set which is graduated or on a grid (this is the one in the bore sighter). These cross hairs should line up with each other vertically, horizontally and in complete alignment. If the vertical and horizontal cross hairs are not parallel with each other, adjust the bore sighter whatever direction it needs to turn in order to achieve this.
Next you need to get the cross hairs to cross or meet at precisely the same location. If they do not do that you will need to adjust your scope so they do. There are two adjustments on any scope. One for elevation (usually on top) and another for windage (usually on the side). Follow the directions that came with your scope for how to access these adjustments and what tool to use (i.e.. screwdriver, etc.) to make this adjustment. Proceed to adjust your scope right, left, up, or down until the cross hairs match. Remove the bore sighter from the muzzle! Make sure you have removed the bore sighter from the end of the muzzle!! Load one cartridge into the chamber and close the breech. Take aim at the target bulls eye and squeeze off one round. Open the breech and be certain the rifle is not loaded then go check your target close up. If the one round you fired hit anywhere on the target you have done well. Don’t be concerned that it was not on the bulls eye. That will come later. You have now completed the first step.
*If you are not hitting the paper target at all in step one, move the target closer in 25 yard increments until you do consistently hit somewhere on the target. You cannot make any scope adjustments if you do not know which direction to make it. Once you initially hit the target sheet you can make adjustments and then gradually move the target back out to the 100 yard mark.
STEP 2
The next step is to test ammunition . As was mentioned in the introduction, no two ammunitions will behave in the same manner when fired from the same rifle. This may be one of the most important steps in sighting in any firearm and is the one that is most frequently omitted. Do not bypass this step.
Select one type of ammo and fire three separate shots at the target with that ammo. Using your binoculars or spotting scope, locate the pattern for those three shots. (If you do not have field glasses or prefer to walk out to the target to check close up, always leave your rifle empty with the breech open and carry it with you to insure against accidental discharge.) Hopefully, there will be a tight pattern of bullet holes in one particular area of the target. Use the marker to label this grouping. Again, it is not terribly important if the pattern is in the bulls eye or not, but keep in mind the bulls eye is what you are aiming for.
Repeat this procedure with the other brands of ammo you are testing. Always fire three shots or more to get an accurate grouping. Two shots are simply not enough to determine anything. When you have finished with all the ammo you care to test, you will have marked and identified each grouping and its relationship to the center of the bulls eye.
Now you can select the type of ammunition which produced the tightest grouping closest to the center bulls eye. This is the ammunition you should use with this rifle. This does not indicate that the other brands and grains of ammunition are not any good, they simply are not the ammunition best suited for this particular rifle. You have now completed step two.
STEP 3
In step three you will use the ammunition you have selected as the best for that rifle and make adjustments in the elevation and windage of your scope based upon the pattern you are shooting. The elevation needs to be adjusted to provide the most accurate shot possible even though the distance from you to your target in the field can range any where from 50 to 500 yards, depending on your scope and rifle. To accomplish this set your elevation so the pattern hits the target about three inches above the bulls eye. This will not alter closer shots significantly and will compensate for the longer shots. The windage adjustment should remain dead on center. Continue to fire no less than three shots to locate your pattern then make the necessary adjustments to your scope to achieve the three inch high dead on center pattern. When you are confident you have accomplished this you have completed step three.
STEP 4
The final step in the procedure is to be sure the rifle is not loaded, no cartridge in the chamber, and the breech open. Reinsert the bore sighter lining it up by eye just like in the first step. Now, get in the shooting position and record on a piece of paper exactly where the scope’s cross hairs are in relation to the bore sight cross hairs. This is a little insurance in case you should bump or drop your rifle while in the field. This kind of jarring can throw off the accuracy of the scope. You can use the bore sighter to check the accuracy of the scope. By referring to this record you made when sighting in your rifle, you will be able to readjust the rifle scope and be reasonably comfortable that it is somewhat accurate. This completes step four and the complete procedure.
How To Sight In Your Rifle Scope is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
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]]>Three Planets to See This Month is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Venus
The goddess planet will be most visible in the early evening. Look for this white planet after dusk in the west.
Mars
Mars is always one of the easiest planets to see because of its dashing crimson color. Look for a star in the sky that appears redder than the others, and chances are it’s the god of war. During this month, Mars will be most visible out west, and high above the horizon.
Jupiter
Though Jupiter is the largest planet in our solar system, it’s not always the most visible because of its distance and proximity to earth. May, however, is a good month to see it for all you early birds out there. Direct your telescope or binoculars right around the eastern horizon just before sunrise. As soon as the sun is fully displayed and the sky is blue, Jupiter will disappear.
Related pages and posts – Choosing The Right Telescope, Telescopes Terminology, Telescopes Online.
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Three Planets to See This Month is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Telescopes Buyer’s Guide is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
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When selecting a telescope consider which target objects you plan to explore as well as you level of experience. For viewing most night sky objects, you’ll want a telescope with as much aperture as possible. Keep in mind that as the size of the objective lens or mirror increases, so does the size of the telescope. So, be sure to select a telescope that isn’t too heavy to manage or too complicated for you to set-up. . . especially if portability is a necessity.
More than 400 years ago, Galileo founded modern physics. His discoveries, methods, and creativity provided Isaac Newton with the laws and principles needed for him to discover the laws of gravity. Equally important, he invented and used his telescope to prove our planet is only one part of a sun centered solar system. Galileo records that he designed and built no less than 100 telescopes. But only a handful were good enough to use; efficient enough to bring distant objects 30 times closer.
In 1610 A.D. his finest telescope, the one he used regularly to explore the heavens, provided him with a sharp image only at the center of his lens. Despite fuzziness and “rainbows” surrounding the center image (today called “aberrations”) he was able to explore and understand the celestial wonders his telescope revealed each night. As a result of his explorations, Galileo created an entirely new science . . . Astronomy. Since then, Astronomers have continually strived to perfect the telescope. Indeed, designing and manufacturing telescopes has become a science in and of itself.
| Intended Use | Recommendation |
| Night Sky & Land Based | All Refractor telescopes |
| First Time Astronomers | Automated tracking systems, computerized star locator |
| Novice Astronomers | Refractors, Firefly systems |
| Experienced Astronomers | Automated tracking systems, photography ready telescope |
Related pages and posts – Choosing The Right Telescope, Telescopes Terminology, Telescopes Online.
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Telescopes Buyer’s Guide is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Spotting Scopes Buyer’s Guide is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
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The spotting scope you choose greatly affects how it will work for you under certain conditions. For example, the person who only wants to use his or her spotting scope at the rifle range can often drive up to the bench and conveniently layout supplies including a large objective porro prism spotting scope. The target shooter could easily use a 80MM porro prism scope on a full-length tripod and not worry about compact design or lightweight since their automobile is a few yards away.
On the other hand, a person who is planning an elk hunt in Montana’s wilderness is probably very concerned with weight and the ability to fit the scope into a pack. Typically roof prism spotting scopes offer the hunter or backpacker a more compact and lightweight design to pack and carry long distances. While some porro prism spotting scopes are quite compact, others can offer larger fields of view and resolution, but they may not be practical to pack into the woods.
Other features for the hunter to consider are rubber armoring to protect the scope from blunt force. A waterproof spotting scope offers piece of mind to the hunter working in rain and snow.
| Intended Use | Recommendation |
| All-Purpose | Light weight, compact, tri-pod mount |
| Birding | 15X-60X, tri-pod mount, Light weight, camera adaptable |
| Hunting | 20X-60X, xtra-wide view, compact, light weight |
| Coated Optics |
| Coatings on lens surfaces reduce light loss and glare due to reflection, resulting in a brighter, higher-contrast image with reduced eyestrain. More coating leads to better light transmission. There are 4 levels of coating: |
| Coated: A single layer on at least one lens |
| Fully-Coated: A single layer on all air-to-glass surfaces |
| Multi-Coated: more than one layer on at least one lens and all surfaces are coated at least once |
| Fully Multi-Coated: More than one layer on all air-to-glass surfaces |
Spotting Scopes Buyer’s Guide is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
]]>Making the Right Riflescope Choice is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
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First, a scope magnifies the target giving the shooter a clearer target picture than with normal eye vision, allowing the shooter to more accurately see the target or game at a greater distance. Using scopes on hunting firearms can give the hunter added hunting time early and late in the day. Scopes accentuate available light, making it possible to shoot in lower light conditions.
Firing a scoped gun can even be safer than shooting with iron sites, since the shooter can better see the target and what’s beyond it. Therefore, he is less likely to shoot something other than the intended game or target.
The right scope also allows shooters to take full advantage of modern calibers and rifles.
Here are some suggestions for the proper scope for various sitiuations.
| Intended Use | Recommendations |
| All purpose big game hunting (deer, elk, antelope) | 3-9 x 40 variable, 4-12×40 with adjustable objective. |
| Shotguns (deer and turkeys) | Low power variables such as 1.75-5×32, 1.5-6×32. The Bushnell HOLOsight ® is also an excellent choise. |
| Varmint Hunting (prairie dog, coyotes) | Higher magnification scopes with adjustable objectives (6-24×40, 6-18×40, 4-12×40, 5-15×50) |
| Extreme Low Light Hunting | Larger objective lens scopes (40mm or greater objective lenses) and scopes with large exit pupils (1.5-6×32, 1.75-4×32) |
| Muzzleloader | Low power variables such as 1.75-5×32, 1.5-6×32. The 1×32 or Bushnell HOLOsight® are also excellent non-magnifying choices. |
| Handguns | Long, constant eye relief scopes such as a 2-6×32, 2×32 or HOLOsight ®. |
| Airguns | Airgun scope or scope with adjustable objective (unique recoil pattern of spring piston airguns requires special design) |
| Small game (squirrels, rabbits, etc.) | Compact .22 scopes (4 x 28), |
| Shotguns (wing shooting) | HOLOsight ® |
| Bench Rest | 36 x |
Making the Right Riflescope Choice is a post from: Binoculars Direct | Eyeglasses | Sunglasses | Contact Lenses | Goggles
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